Hurrah! It's that time of year again and we're back in the greenhouses getting our hands dirty. And even though the air is filled with snowflakes outside, we'll let you in on our little secret - spring is just around the corner! Here are some of the first plants we're potting up in our cozy greenhouses.
Join us for some early plants, refreshments, and to wander our sunny greenhouses at our Open House on March 30th!
~ Sophia
This mother's day is especially important to me, because for the first time in four years I actually get to be in the same time zone with my mom! We get to celebrate our birthdays and holidays together this year, to make dinner dates and plan our gardens and do all the things we missed so much, and I feel so grateful to have her back in Vermont. Sometimes, just like the Joni Mitchell song, we don't realize how important things (or people) are to us until we don't have them around. So here's to the time we get to spend with our moms, and the chance to say thanks for their boundless love and for being just amazing.
This year we're pulling out all the stops to spoil the moms in our world - with a new play area to entertain the kids, with gooseberries, currants, hazelnuts, and quince (plus all the traditional favorites), with rose bushes and strawberry baskets, herb planters and gift cards, three new greenhouses, and too many flowers and vegetables to name. It is truly a gift to work in a place so filled with beauty and life, and to see people enjoying it is the icing on the cake.
Happy Mother's Day!
The rollercoaster ride of spring at Red Wagon is in progress! We had a glorious day potting up perennials last week outside in the sun. Fortunately the plants are oblivious to the chilly weather this week, putting up lots of new leaves and enjoying the cozy conditions in our greenhouses. And you can too! Come to our open house this Sunday, April 1st from 9am to noon and soak up some sun, pick up some adorable plants for your table or windowsill, check out the calves next door and talk to our great staff about your gardening goals! Check out the photos below to see what we've been up to...
The trick to having fresh lettuce all summer is to choose your varieties and timing well. You will need to have a succession of different varieties planted every week or so throughout the summer to ensure a constant supply. Start with cold tolerant varieties in the spring, then plant heat- and drought-tolerant ones in the summer, and plants with good holding ability and heat tolerance in late summer and early fall. Plants turn bitter when they are starting to bolt (go to seed) and are exposed to too much heat, so choosing your variety and timing well also avoids bitterness. Here’s an example planting:
Perennials: Angelica, Catnip, Chives and Garlic Chives, French Sorrel, Germander, Anise Hyssop, ‘Munstead’, 'Grosso', 'Provence' Lavender, Lemon Balm, Lovage, Mint, Oregano, Rue, Sage, Winter Savory, Sweet Woodruff, French Tarragon, Thyme, Valerian Annuals: Artemisia (self seeds), Basil, Chamomile (self seeds), Chervil (self seeds), Cilantro, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew (self seeds), Lemongrass, Marjoram, Papalo, Parsley, Red Shiso, Rosemary, Summer Savory
Some herbs can be kept as houseplants over the winter. Some that do well are rosemary, thyme, sage, basil, and parsley. It is always nice to have a few pots of these in the kitchen to snip into bowls of soup, salads, scrambled eggs and roasted vegetables and meats. You can dig them up out of the garden in the fall or just grow them in pots all summer that you then bring into the house once the temperature drops.
The first step to preventing bolting is to understand what causes it. Bolting, or going to seed, is a natural part of the plant's life cycle. Some plants have longer life cycles than others. Arugula, lettuce, cilantro and dill all have relatively short life cycles, so they will try to produce seed within 8 to 10 weeks of being planted. It is an inevitable part of the plant life cycle but can be postponed with good management. It can also be caused by shock during transplanting, by too much or too little water, and around the solstice when the days start getting shorter. Transplant shock can be minimized by careful hardening off and transplanting in late afternoon when the plants will not be exposed to intense midday heat. Water carefully and time your plantings so that a fresh generation is coming along before the previous generation goes to seed. Here is a helpful schedule to help you maximize the harvest:
Cilantro - plant every 3 weeks from late April to mid August. These are very cold tolerant and can be grown early and late to extend the season. If you are very eager to have cilantro for salsa, then make sure to plant some in early July so that it is ready to eat at the same time as your tomatoes are ripe. The flowers of cilantro are edible and are a lovely addition to salads and salsas.
Dill - like cilantro, is very cold tolerant and can be grown early and late in the season. This self seeds willingly, so you can always allow a patch to flower and drop its seeds giving you a perpetual patch. The flowers of dill are tasty in pickles and marinades.
Lettuce - lettuce can be grown at the baby leaf stage or the full head stage. Please refer to our lettuce post to learn more about the timing of lettuce. It should be planted every week or two if you eat lots of salads and want fresh, non-bitter leaves on your plate. It can be planted from seeds or from plants. If you prefer the texture and flavor of full heads of lettuce, then transplant individual plants every 10" - about 4 to 8 transplants a week is plenty. If you prefer cut lettuce leaves, then use seeds, and sprinkle them in a row, about 2 or 3 seeds per inch. Cut lettuce leaves can grow back and provide you with a second harvest, but the quality goes down each time and the bitterness increases. It is best to replant a fresh row of seeds every couple of weeks.
Arugula - like lettuce, it can be grown from transplants or from seeds. It is best to plant it regularly as it does not grow back very well. Its flowers are edible, and can be a nice peppery additions to salads, sauces, and grilled fish.
Red Wagon grows a number of plants that make good houseplants. The characteristics to look for are a tolerance of shade, a preference for hot conditions (such as tropical plants), and plants that are annuals (do not require cold winters). Some great choices are:
Virtually all plants will bloom longer if you deadhead them. Picking lots of blossoms encourages the plant to branch and so you get more. I’ve had especially good luck with these varieties: Heliopsis (False Sunflower), which sometimes blossoms for 10-12 weeks in the fall Rudbeckia (Black Eyed Susan) – 6-7 weeks Monarda (Bee Balm) - 8-12 weeks Coreopsis - 8-12 weeks Bleeding Heart (Dicentra) ‘Luxuriant’ - 10-14 weeks, Feverfew – 8-12 weeks if you let new plants grow and cut back the old ones
Annuals:
Geraniums
Imaptiens
Pansies
Marigolds
Salvias
Sunflowers
New Guinea Impatiens
Perennials:
Bleeding Heart
Astilbe
Echinacea
Garden Phlox
Sedums
Rudbeckia
Bee Balm
Lady's Mantle
Hostas are always a good choice and there are so many of them! Using varieties with lots of yellow or white in the leaves gives “color” to the shade garden. They can can be divided each year to fill the area. Bleeding Heart - both white and pink heart-shaped flowers add a splash of color Astilbe - plumes of white or pink flowers add elegance in the spring
Sweet Woodruff - a nice spring ephemeral with abundant tiny white flowers and shiny green foliage Pulmonaria has stunning dark green leaves with white splotches and delicate flowers in spring
Ferns and mosses are a great choice for filling in shady areas with nice textures
Brunnera - this plant comes in many shades of silver, green, and gold, and adds lovely heart shaped leaves and texture to the shade garden.
Laminum - a wonderful groundcover that with silver foliage and small blue flowers
Most garden favorites can be grown in containers as long as they are provided with plenty of soil, good drainage, light, and fertility. It is important to remember that container plants require more regular watering than plants grown in the ground since their roots cannot seek out water by growing deeper. The same goes for nutrients - fertilize at least every two weeks during the growing season. Some varieties have been bred especially for container growing, such as the “Tiny Tim” tomato.
Decide what you'd like to grow and eat, considering the space requirements and growth habit for each. Vine veggies like cucumbers and squash can be planted on the periphery to spill out onto a lawn and not crowd the other plants; or they can also be trellised.
Give tomatoes at least 3 square feet, eggplant and peppers 2 square feet. Also, consider rate of maturity; plant lettuce in one area, then after harvesting, plant beets or herbs. Planting a few edible flowers, such as nasturtium or gem marigold gives the raised bed a flower planter look. For ease of maintenance, make sure space or a path is made to reach all of the plantings.
Plants in a raised bed tend to yield more than plants in the ground because their roots are in lighter soil that is easier to grow in. It is important to only use good quality top soil and compost in the raised bed. The bottom layer can be filled with some rotted horse manure and yard waste like leaves and grass clipping.
Choose varieties that do well in smaller spaces and keep re-using the space once you harvest something. Small patches of green beans can be replanted multiple times, a small trellis with a few snap peas can be a nice addition that leaves room for summer lettuce or fall broccoli. Just keep in mind that a few plants that are well cared for will yield as much as many plants that are poorly cared for!
The ideal method for growing asparagus is to prepare the area at least one season in advance by tilling and planting a cover crop to suppress weeds. This will help reduce stress on the asparagus plants during their first few years, ensuring a healthier and more vigorous crop. A cover crop turned into the bed also increases the organic matter in the soil which is good for the plants. Since asparagus is a perennial that can last for many years, choose a well-drained site that can be dedicated to asparagus for the foreseeable future.
Asparagus is usually grown by tilling an area and then digging trenches 6-8” deep and 3-5’ apart. The crowns (roots) are placed in the trenches 8” apart for narrow spears and 14” apart for thick spears. Cover the crowns with 1-2” of soil and fertilize heavily with compost or other phosphate-rich fertilizer. Add soil to the trenches three times during the next few weeks until the soil is mounded somewhat to avoid water pooling around the plants. Keep the plants hand-weeded and fertilized until midsummer, then mulch heavily with straw or leaves to suppress weeds. The asparagus “ferns” should be allowed to grow, since they feed the plants, then cut back after they die in the fall. A moderate harvest is usually possible the first year after planting, followed by full harvests every spring thereafter.
Red and black asparagus beetles are nearly always present in summer and can be treated with organic pesticides but are better removed by hand to minimize harm to the plants. Just drop the beetles and larvae into a can of soapy water to kill them. Larvae can also be killed by gently brushing the ferns with a soft broom - they die quickly after falling to the ground.
Although asparagus is not quite as simple to grow as annual crops, it is well worth the effort! Fresh, juicy asparagus spears are unrivaled in texture and flavor.
A determinate tomato is a type of tomato that has all of its fruit ripen at once. They usually grow to about 4 to 5 feet tall, and then stop growing while they spend all of their energy on fruit production. They are great for canning since they ensure you have a large harvest all at once. They can be grown without staking, but the fruit quality will be better if cages, stakes or a small trellis are used. Indeterminate tomatoes keep growing until they succumb to frost or a disease. In a warm climate, they are actually perennials and can grow into trees. Indeterminates ripen all season long and give you a more sequential harvest with one or two tomatoes ripening a day during peak harvest.
In general, space tomato plants at least 2' apart, preferably 3' or more apart. Support both kinds; pea fences or hardwood stakes work nicely on determinates; indeterminates keep growing up and out and need more support, such as hardwood stakes positioned so that as the tomatoes grow, trellising can be added with hemp twine.
Check out this video to see a method we like for trellising tomatoes:
Round tomato cages are great for peppers and eggplants. One of our customers designed a portable one-tomato planter with a five gallon bucket, drilled 3 holes about 2 inches from the bottom for a water reservoir, and screwed two hardwood stakes to opposite sides of the bucket for plant support.
We have been busy at work with ordering seeds, deciding on what plants to grow for the coming year, and which ones to discontinue. We usually add about 10% new varieties each year - enough to keep it interesting, but not so much that we risk having bad inventory or unwanted expenses for a plant no one loves. This is really, really hard since the seed catalogs and plug listings each year show more and more varieties that look tempting. Not to mention the world of heirloom seeds which is so vast and so alluringly historic and charming. If the pressures of pleasing customers and breaking even were eliminated, I would probably have the type of nursery where every plant has a sign that is 12" x 12" with lots of text describing some arcane knowledge about how the variety was bred or discovered, how it was cooked in 15th century Sicily and how it came to be a Red Wagon variety. My winter job at Red Wagon is part business manager, part HR department, and part curator. Guess which is my favorite. Take a look at the list of new plants and give us some feedback. Our favorite new variety is the kind that comes by way of a customer recommendation, so you get a vote in this process.
Happy garden planning, and check out the rest of the website for the complete plant list, we are updating it this week,
Julie
| Plant Category | Genus | Variety or Cultivar | ||||
| Annuals | African Foxglove | Ceratotheca triloba | ||||
| Annuals | Amaranth | Oeschberg | ||||
| Annuals | Angelonia | Adessa White | ||||
| Annuals | Balsam | Impatiens Balsamina | ||||
| Annuals | Begonia, Tuberous | Illumination Peaches and Cream | ||||
| Annuals | Begonia, Tuberous | Non-Stop, Bright Rose | ||||
| Annuals | Begonia, Tuberous | Pin Up Flame | ||||
| Annuals | Browalia | Endless Flirtation | ||||
| Annuals | Browalia | Endless Illumination | ||||
| Annuals | Calibrachoa | Saffron | ||||
| Annuals | Calibrachoa | Superbells Dreamsicle | ||||
| Annuals | Calibrachoa | Superbells Peach | ||||
| Annuals | Calibrachoa | Superbells Trailing White | ||||
| Annuals | Calibrachoa | Tequilla Sunrise Improved | ||||
| Annuals | Calibrachoa | Yellow | ||||
| Annuals | California Poppy | Milkmaid | ||||
| Annuals | Celosia | Chief Mixed Cockscomb | ||||
| Annuals | Celosia | Cramers’ Amazon | ||||
| Annuals | Coleus | Amora | ||||
| Annuals | Coleus | Big Red Judy | ||||
| Annuals | Coleus | Fishnet Stockings | ||||
| Annuals | coleus | Glennis | ||||
| Annuals | Coleus | Sedona | ||||
| Annuals | coleus | Wedding Train | ||||
| Annuals | Cosmos | Cosmic Orange | ||||
| Annuals | Cosmos | Cosmic Mix | ||||
| Annuals | Cosmos | Cosmic Red | ||||
| Annuals | Cosmos | New Choco | ||||
| Annuals | Cosmos | Sonata Dwarf Mix | ||||
| Annuals | Cosmos | Sonata White | ||||
| Annuals | Dahlia | Happy Days Cream | ||||
| Annuals | Dahlia | Happy Days Pink | ||||
| Annuals | Dahlia | Happy Days Purple | ||||
| Annuals | Dahlia | Happy Mystic enchantment | ||||
| Annuals | Dahlia | Mystic Haze | ||||
| Annuals | Dahlia | Mystic Wonder | ||||
| Annuals | Dahlia | Salvador | ||||
| Annuals | Dusty Miller | Silver Lace | ||||
| Annuals | Euphorbia | Mountain Snow | ||||
| Annuals | Exclusively Echeveriaa Collection | |||||
| Annuals | Fern | Montana | ||||
| Annuals | Fern Collection | |||||
| Annuals | Floering Cabbage | Osaka Mix | ||||
| Annuals | Four Oclock | Marvel of Peru | ||||
| Annuals | Gaura lindiheimeri | Whirling Butterflies | ||||
| Annuals | Gazania | New Day Mix | ||||
| Annuals | Geranium | Firestar Purple | ||||
| Annuals | Geranium | Firestar Salmon | ||||
| Annuals | Geranium, Ivy | Mini Cascade Red | ||||
| Annuals | Geranium, Ivy | Sunflair Fireball | ||||
| Annuals | Geranium, Ivy | Sunflair Neon Pink | ||||
| Annuals | Geranium, Ivy | Sybil Holmes | ||||
| Annuals | Geranium, Ivy | Vancouver Centennial | ||||
| Annuals | Geranium, Scented | Lemon Fizz | ||||
| Annuals | Geranium, Scented | P. querquifolia | ||||
| Annuals | Geranium, Scented | Sweet Mimosa | ||||
| Annuals | Geranium, Zonal | Brocade Happy Thoughts Red | ||||
| Annuals | Geranium, Zonal | Brocade, Mrs Pollock | ||||
| Annuals | Geranium, Zonal | Candy Fantasy Kiss | ||||
| Annuals | Geranium, Zonal | Madame Salleron | ||||
| Annuals | Geranium, Zonal | Patriot Cherry Rose | ||||
| Annuals | Geranium, Zonal | Patriot Lavender Blue | ||||
| Annuals | Geranium, Zonal | Patriot Salmon Chic | ||||
| Annuals | Geranium, Zonal | Pillar Purple | ||||
| Annuals | Geranium, Zonal | Rocky Mountain Lavender | ||||
| Annuals | Geranium, Zonal | Rocky Mountain Magenta | ||||
| Annuals | Gomphrena | QIS Formula Mix | ||||
| Annuals | Hedera | Golden Child | ||||
| Annuals | Hedera | White Mein Hertz | ||||
| Annuals | Hypoestes | Splash Rose Select | ||||
| Annuals | Impatiens | Super Elfin Salmon Splash | ||||
| Annuals | Impatiens | Super Elfin XP pink | ||||
| Annuals | Ipomoea | Desana Bronze | ||||
| Annuals | Juncus | Blue Arrows | ||||
| Annuals | Juncus spiralis | Unicorn | ||||
| Annuals | Kiss Me Over the Garden Gate | |||||
| Annuals | Lantana | Evita Rose | ||||
| Annuals | Lantana | Bandana Cherry Sunrise | ||||
| Annuals | Lantana | Bandana Rose Improved | ||||
| Annuals | Lantana - bandana | Peach | ||||
| Annuals | Larkspur | Sublime Formula Mix | ||||
| Annuals | Leycesteria | Jealousy | ||||
| Annuals | Licorice | Lemon | ||||
| Annuals | Lisianthus | Echo Lavender | ||||
| Annuals | Lisianthus | Echo Pink | ||||
| Annuals | Lobularia | Silver Stream | ||||
| Annuals | Marigold | Antigua Orange | ||||
| Annuals | Marigold | Antigua Yellow | ||||
| Annuals | Marigold | French Janie Primrose Yellow | ||||
| Annuals | Marigold | French Single Marietta | ||||
| Annuals | Marigold, French | Durango Tangerine | ||||
| Annuals | Melampodium | Derby | ||||
| Annuals | Morning Glory | Grandpa Ott’s | ||||
| Annuals | Morning Glory | Moonflower | ||||
| Annuals | Nasturtium | Trailing | ||||
| Annuals | Nemesia | Angelart Almond | ||||
| Annuals | Nemesia | Angelart Pineapple | ||||
| Annuals | Ornamental Corn | Field of Dreams | ||||
| Annuals | Ornamental Millet | Purple Majesty | ||||
| Annuals | Osteospermum | 3-D Silver | ||||
| Annuals | Osteospermum | Astra Orange Sunrise | ||||
| Annuals | Osteospermum | Cape Daisy Fireburst | ||||
| Annuals | Osteospermum | Cape Daisy Purple | ||||
| Annuals | Osteospermum | Sunset Orange | ||||
| Annuals | Osteospermum | Zion Copper Amethyst | ||||
| Annuals | Oxalis | Allure Burgundy | ||||
| Annuals | oxalis triangularis | Charmed Velvet | ||||
| Annuals | oxalis triangularis | Charmed WIne | ||||
| Annuals | Pansy | Delta Mix Buttered Popcorn | ||||
| Annuals | Pansy | Delta Premium True Blue | ||||
| Annuals | Pansy | Freefall Golden Yellow | ||||
| Annuals | Pansy | Matrix Sangria | ||||
| Annuals | Pansy | Panola XP Mix baby Boy | ||||
| Annuals | Pansy | Panola XP Mix Blackberry Sundae | ||||
| Annuals | Pansy | Panola XP Mix Citrus | ||||
| Annuals | Pansy | Ultima Blue Chill | ||||
| Annuals | Pansy | Ultima Morpho | ||||
| Annuals | Petunia | Bouquet Salmon | ||||
| Annuals | Petunia | Littletunia Sweet Sherbert | ||||
| Annuals | Petunia | Mini Strawberry pink veined | ||||
| Annuals | Petunia | Whispers Star Rose | ||||
| Annuals | Petunia Cascadias | Cherry Spark | ||||
| Annuals | Petunia Littletunia | Sweet Dark Pink | ||||
| Annuals | petunia multiflora prostrate | Easy Wave Plum Vein | ||||
| Annuals | Petunia multiflora prostrate | Easy Wave White | ||||
| Annuals | Poppy | White Linen | ||||
| Annuals | Portulaca | Happy Hour Mix | ||||
| Annuals | Portulaca | Sundial Chiffon | ||||
| Annuals | Portulaca | Sundial Mix | ||||
| Annuals | Portulaca | Sundial Pink | ||||
| Annuals | Rudbeckia | Autumn Colors | ||||
| Annuals | Rudbeckia | Cherokee Sunset | ||||
| Annuals | Rudbeckia | Prairie Sun | ||||
| Annuals | Rudbeckia | Denver Daisy | ||||
| Annuals | Salvia farinacea | Victoria Blue | ||||
| Annuals | Sanvitalia | Cuzco Yellow | ||||
| Annuals | Scabiosa | Black Knight | ||||
| Annuals | Snapdragon | Montego Mix Sangria | ||||
| Annuals | Snapdragon | Rocket Mix | ||||
| Annuals | Snapdragon | Rocket White | ||||
| Annuals | Spectacular Succulent Collection | |||||
| Annuals | Sunflower | Sunny Smile | ||||
| Annuals | Sweet Potato Vine | Bright Ideas Rusty Red | ||||
| Annuals | Thunbergia | Arizona Dark Red | ||||
| Annuals | Thunbergia | Lemon | ||||
| Annuals | Thunbergia | Orange | ||||
| Annuals | Thunbergia | Sunny Suzie Yellow Dark Eye | ||||
| Annuals | Thunbergia | Sunny Suzy Red Orange | ||||
| Annuals | TRIXI COMBO | Ayers Rock | ||||
| Annuals | TRIXI COMBO | Caribean Cocktail | ||||
| Annuals | TRIXI COMBO | Gold and Bold | ||||
| Annuals | TRIXI COMBO | Lemon Sorbet | ||||
| Annuals | TRIXI COMBO | Lollipop | ||||
| Annuals | TRIXI COMBO | Sunrise | ||||
| Annuals | Verbena | Chambray Royal superbena | ||||
| Annuals | Verbena | Estrella Salmon Star | ||||
| Annuals | Verbena | Lanai Twister pink | ||||
| Annuals | Verbena | Royal Peachy Keen | ||||
| Annuals | Verbena | Tukana Scarlet star | ||||
| Annuals | Viola | Penny Orchid Frost | ||||
| Annuals | Zinnia | Dreamland Mix | ||||
| Annuals | Zinnia | Dreamland Red | ||||
| Annuals | Zinnia | Sunbow Mix | ||||
| Annuals | Zinnia | White | ||||
| Eggplants | Globe | Rosa Bianca | ||||
| Ferns | Matteuccia struthiopteris | Ostrich Fern | ||||
| Foliage | Alternanthera | Brazilian Red Hot | ||||
| Foliage | Alternanthera | Red Thread | ||||
| Foliage | German Ivy | Green | ||||
| Foliage | Muehlenbeckia | Wire Vine | ||||
| Foliage | Setcreasea | Purple Queen | ||||
| Herbs | Basil | Amethyst Improved | ||||
| Herbs | Basil | Sacred, Tulsi | ||||
| Herbs | Basil | Sweet Genovese, Aroma II | ||||
| Herbs | Basil | Sweet Genovese, Aton | ||||
| Herbs | Bee Balm | Wild Bergamot | ||||
| Herbs | Epazote | |||||
| Herbs | Feverfew | |||||
| Herbs | Flax | |||||
| Herbs | French Sorrel | |||||
| Herbs | Lavender | Fern Leaf | ||||
| Herbs | Lemongrass | West Indian | ||||
| Herbs | Mint | Emerald and Gold | ||||
| Herbs | Oregano | Mexican Lippia | ||||
| Herbs | Papalo | |||||
| Herbs | Red Shiso | Britton | ||||
| Herbs | Red Shiso | |||||
| Herbs | Rosemary | Prostrate | ||||
| Herbs | Sage | White | ||||
| Herbs | Thyme | Lime Golden | ||||
| Herbs | Thyme | Orange | ||||
| Herbs | Thyme | Wooly | ||||
| Herbs | Zaatar | Marjoram | ||||
| Peppers | Hot | Fish | ||||
| Peppers | Ornamental Hot Pepper | Chilly Chilly | ||||
| Peppers | Sweet | Pepperoncino | ||||
| Peppers | Sweet | Round of Hungary | ||||
| Peppers | Sweet | Sweet Banana Pepper | ||||
| Perennial | Adenophora | Amethyst | ||||
| Perennial | Alchemilla | Lady’s Mantle | ||||
| Perennial | Sedum | Blue Spruce | ||||
| Perennial | Sedum | Floriferum | ||||
| Perennial | Sedum | Oracle | ||||
| Perennial | Sedum | Picolette | ||||
| Perennial | Sedum | Voodoo | ||||
| Perennial | Thyme | Wooly | ||||
| Perennials | Achillea | Pretty Belinda | ||||
| Perennials | Achillea | Saucy Seduction | ||||
| Perennials | Achillea | Strawberry Seduction | ||||
| Perennials | Achillea | Sunny Seduction | ||||
| Perennials | Achillea millefolium | Colorado | ||||
| Perennials | Acorus | ‘Ogon’ | ||||
| Perennials | ajuga | Dixie Chip | ||||
| Perennials | Alcea rosea | Chaters Double Purple | ||||
| Perennials | Alchemilla Molis | Lady’s Mantle | ||||
| Perennials | Anemone | sylvestris | ||||
| Perennials | Aquigelia | Cameo Rose and White | ||||
| Perennials | Aquigelia | Origami Mix | ||||
| Perennials | Artemesia | Silver Brocade | ||||
| Perennials | Astilbe | Delft Lace | ||||
| Perennials | Astilbe | Deutschland | ||||
| Perennials | Astilbe | Fanal | ||||
| Perennials | Baptisia Solar Flare | Prairie Blues | ||||
| Perennials | Bellis Daisy | Bellissima Rose | ||||
| Perennials | Bergenia cordifolia | ‘Winter Glow’ | ||||
| Perennials | Campanula glomerata | ‘Freya’ | ||||
| Perennials | Centranthus | Cocineus | ||||
| Perennials | Chrysanthemum | Samba | ||||
| Perennials | Coreopsis verticullata | Early Sunrise | ||||
| Perennials | corydalis sempervirens | |||||
| Perennials | Delphinium | Magic Fountains Dark Blue w Dark Bee | ||||
| Perennials | Delphinium | Magic Fountains Sky Blue w White Base | ||||
| Perennials | dianthus | Pomegranate Kiss | ||||
| Perennials | dianthus | Zing Rose | ||||
| Perennials | Dicentra | Gold Heart | ||||
| Perennials | Echinacea | Harvest Moon | ||||
| Perennials | Echinacea | PowWow Wild Berry | ||||
| Perennials | Echinacea | Sundown | ||||
| Perennials | Eupatorium dubium | ‘little joe’ | ||||
| Perennials | Fern | Barne’s Male | ||||
| Perennials | Gaillardia aristata | Arizona Sun | ||||
| Perennials | geranium | Rozanne | ||||
| Perennials | Geranium cantabrigiense | ‘Bergarten’ | ||||
| Perennials | Geranium macrorrhizum | ‘Album’ | ||||
| Perennials | Geranium maculatum | ‘Espresso’ | ||||
| Perennials | Guara | Pink Fountain | ||||
| Perennials | Helleborus | Pink Parachutes | ||||
| Perennials | Hemerocallis | Alabama Jubilee daylily | ||||
| Perennials | Hemerocallis | Always Afternoon | ||||
| Perennials | Heuchera | ‘Snow Angel’ | ||||
| Perennials | Heuchera | Obsidian | ||||
| Perennials | Heuchera | Plum Pudding | ||||
| Perennials | Heuchera | Raspberry Regal | ||||
| Perennials | Heuchera | Silver Scrolls | ||||
| Perennials | Hibiscus | Luna Red | ||||
| Perennials | Iberis sempervivens | Snowflake | ||||
| Perennials | Iris | ‘Before the Storm’ | ||||
| Perennials | Iris pallida | ‘Argentea Variegata’ | ||||
| Perennials | Iris sibirica | Pink Haze | ||||
| Perennials | Joe Pye Weed | |||||
| Perennials | Juncus effusus ssp. | Twister | ||||
| Perennials | laminum | Beacon Silver | ||||
| Perennials | Lamium | Orchid Frost | ||||
| Perennials | Lamium maculatum | Beacon Silver | ||||
| perennials | Lathyrus latifolia | Perennial sweet pea | ||||
| Perennials | Liatris | Floristan White | ||||
| Perennials | Ligularia dentata | Britt-Marie Crawford | ||||
| Perennials | Ligularia dentata | Little Rocket | ||||
| Perennials | Lychnis arkwrightii | Orange Gnome | ||||
| Perennials | Lysimachia punctata | ‘Alexander’ | ||||
| Perennials | monarda | Petite Delight | ||||
| Perennials | monarda | Purple Rooster | ||||
| Perennials | monarda | Raspberry Wine | ||||
| Perennials | monarda didyma | Jacob Cline | ||||
| Perennials | myosotis sylvatica | Royal Blue Carpet | ||||
| Perennials | paeonia | Duchess de Nemours | ||||
| Perennials | paeonia | Felix Crousse | ||||
| Perennials | Papaver | Flamenco Dancer | ||||
| Perennials | Penstemon digitalis | Dark Towers | ||||
| Perennials | Perovskia | Longin | ||||
| Perennials | Persicaria | Darjeeling Red | ||||
| Perennials | Phlox glabberima | ‘Morris Red’ | ||||
| Perennials | Phlox paniculata | David | ||||
| Perennials | Phlox paniculata | David’s Lavender | ||||
| Perennials | Phlox paniculata | Flame series purple ‘Barfourteen’ | ||||
| Perennials | Physostegia | Pink Manners | ||||
| perennials | Physostegia virginiana | Alba | ||||
| Perennials | Phystostegia | Crown of Snow | ||||
| Perennials | Primula | Ronsdorf Strain | ||||
| Perennials | Salvia | Caradonna | ||||
| Perennials | Salvia | Sweet 16 | ||||
| Perennials | Scabiosa | Beaujolais Bonnets | ||||
| Perennials | Scabiosa | Vivid Violet | ||||
| Perennials | Sedum | Autumn FIre | ||||
| Perennials | Sedum | Matrona | ||||
| Perennials | Sedum | Neon | ||||
| Perennials | sedum | kamtschaticum | ||||
| Perennials | sedum | sieboldii | ||||
| Perennials | Sedum spurium | Summer Glory | ||||
| Perennials | Tanacetum | Robinsons Red | ||||
| Perennials | Tiarella | ‘Delaware’ | ||||
| Perennials | Tiarella | ‘Lace Carpet’ | ||||
| Perennials | Tiarella | ‘Susquehanna’ | ||||
| Perennials | Trollius chinensis | Golden Queen | ||||
| Perennials | Veronica | Giles van Hees | ||||
| Perennials | Viola | Labradorica | ||||
| Perennials | Viola | Striata | ||||
| Perennials | Salvia aregentea | Artemis | ||||
| Shrub | Hydrangea macrophylla | Endless Summer | ||||
| Shrub | Hydrangea paniculata | Limelight | ||||
| Shrub | Amelanchier Autumn Brilliance | Service Berry | ||||
| Shrub | Ilex verticulata | Southern Gentleman | ||||
| Shrub | Ilex verticulata | Winter Red | ||||
| Shrub | Viburnum Trilobum | Alfredo | ||||
| Small Fruit | Blackberry | Black Satin | ||||
| Small Fruit | Gooseberry | Titan | ||||
| Small Fruit | Strawberry | Jewel | ||||
| Small Fruit | Strawberry | Sparkle | ||||
| Tomatoes | Cherry | Gold Nugget | ||||
| Tomatoes | Cherry | Green Envy | ||||
| Tomatoes | Cherry | Isis Candy | ||||
| Tomatoes | Cherry | Lizzano | ||||
| Tomatoes | Cherry | Sweet Treats | ||||
| Tomatoes | Cherry | Terenzo | ||||
| Tomatoes | Cherry | Sweet Black Cherry | ||||
| Tomatoes | Container | Red Husky (Patio) | ||||
| Tomatoes | Determinate | Orange Blossom | ||||
| Tomatoes | Determinate | Oregon Spring | ||||
| Tomatoes | Heirloom | Black Prince | ||||
| Tomatoes | Heirloom | Cosmonaut Volkov | ||||
| Tomatoes | Heirloom | Costoluto Genovese | ||||
| Tomatoes | Heirloom | Dona | ||||
| Tomatoes | Heirloom | Earl of Edgecombe | ||||
| Tomatoes | Heirloom | Paul Robeson | ||||
| Tomatoes | Heirloom | Pineapple | ||||
| Tomatoes | Heirloom | Wapsipinicon Peach | ||||
| Tomatoes | Hybrid | Brandymaster Yellow | ||||
| Tomatoes | Hybrid | Park’s Whopper | ||||
| Tomatoes | Paste | Amish Gold | ||||
| Tomatoes | Plum | San Marzano gigante III | ||||
| Vegetables | cantaloupe | Sarah’s Choice | ||||
| Vegetables | Cantaloupe, French Charentais | Savor | ||||
| Vegetables | Italian Dandelion | Clio Chicory | ||||
| Vegetables | Lettuce | Mottistone | ||||
| Vegetables | Lettuce | Nevada Summer Crisp | ||||
| Vegetables | Lettuce | Red Batavian Cherokee | ||||
| Vegetables | Lettuce | Red Cross - Red Butterhead | ||||
| Vegetables | Lettuce | Red Oak Paradai | ||||
| Vegetables | Mei Qing Choi (Baby Boc Choi) | Boc Choi | ||||
| Vegetables | Mustard Greens | Ruby Streaks | ||||
| Vegetables | Okra | Millionaire | ||||
| Vegetables | Onion | Mini Purplette | ||||
| Vegetables | Onion | Redwing | ||||
| Vegetables | Radicchio | Virtus | ||||
| Vegetables | Summer Squash | Magda | ||||
| Vegetables | Vertus | Radicchio | ||||
| Vegetables | watermelon | Sunshine | ||||
August is rolling around, thundering ahead, and with it comes some vegetable planting possibilities that will feed you late into autumn and early winter. This is a great time to clean out some of the garden beds that have finished producing and replant them with some fresh crops for late season harvest. Here are a few options that you might want to consider incorporating into your later summer gardening routine.
Broccoli
- seed a small amount directly into garden beds, or buy transplants up to mid-August. If you are direct seeding into a garden bed, remember to thin or prick out and replant the broccoli babies so that they have proper spacing (15” or so).
Cabbage
- same as broccoli. Choose shorter day varieties. Seed packets usually list the days to maturity for all crops. In early August, you can usually get away with planting a 60 day cabbage that will be ready in early October.
Kale -
this is a great time to put in a few more kale plants or seeds, they will size up before snow flies, and will withstand lots of wintery weather. The good thing about kale, is that once it is full grown, it will just stand around in the garden waiting to be picked. It does not get “too old” or bolt (jump into seed production mode). This makes it a great early winter crop and a joy to harvest under snow fall. Collards can be treated this way as well. A note on flea beetles: It does not hurt to use row cover to speed things along and to keep out the flea beetles. They are little biting insects that make little holes in the leaves and generally slow down a plant’s growth by stressing it a bit. All vegetables in the brassica family are susceptible to flea beetles - broccoli, kale, cabbage, mustards, arugula, collard greens, and boc choi are all in this family.
Arugula -
a nice addition to salads, this tender green with a mustard-like flavor is also a great survivor of cold temperatures. It can withstand many hard frosts and will continue to add a little spike to your salads well into November and December. You can put row cover on it to keep away the flea beetles and to give it a little extra protection from cold winds that can dry it out. If it starts to turn a little purple in the colder temps, don’t worry about it, it is still fine to eat. This is just a symptom of not being able to absorb phosphorous in cold conditions.
Turnips
- a short season salad turnip can still be sown in August. I like the Hakurei variety from Johnny’s. It is delicious raw in salads, sliced thinly or finely diced, or sauteed in a little butter with fresh herbs (winter savory makes a special appearance at my house, often in this dish in particular). People who think they hate turnips will just be shocked when they taste these buttery slices that just melt in your mouth.
Spinach
- in the first half of August, it is a good idea to plant a large patch of spinach. It will germinate in the cooler night time temperatures (spinach does not like to germinate in the heat) and will last a long time in the field in the cool temperatures of October and early November.
Overwintered Spinach - overwintering means keeping a vegetable alive through the winter for spring harvesting and eating. Not all vegetables can survive our VT winters, but the few that can include spinach, parsnips, leeks, garlic, and parsley. Spinach for early spring eating (mid to late April) should be sown in the first two weeks of September. Once it germinates, allow it to grow without harvesting or touching it. You can eat a little if you want, but ideally you will leave as much of the plant in the ground as possible. Once very cold weather hits, in early to mid-December, you can protect the spinach under a layer of straw, or leaves, or a few layers of row cover. In the spring, as soon as the ground has thawed out, remove the layers of protection and you will see the spinach come to life, long before any other plants begin to stir. This is such a delicious treat for early spring and really worth the trouble. A future post will be just about overwintered vegetables, so if this is something you have been wanting to try in your garden, check back here in a few days!
Cilantro and Dill
are good herbs for fall planting since their cold-hardiness is unmatched, and it will give you something to add to autumn salsas, salads, and pickles. Just sprinkle some seed into a shallow trench, press them in, and lightly cover with soil. The planting depth is very shallow here, just 1/4 inch or so. One of the most common problems with crops seeded directly into garden soil, is that they get planted too deeply. Remember this basic rule of thumb: the seed needs to be planted only 2 times deeper than its own size. Cilantro and dill will live until the first snow! They thrive in the cold. They are true soldiers of season extension.
Let us know if you feel inspired to try your hand with some of this season extension - we love to hear about it!
The problem with plants that taste good to us is that they also taste good to a variety of insects. These bugs can suck the juices out of the plant, chew big ugly holes, and transmit diseases. Because plants in the squash family (melons, cucumbers, squashes, and zucchinis) are very juicy and sweet, bugs love them. But don't despair! We can help you identify and manage these pests so you can bring in the bounty. Cucumber Beetles
These pesky little creatures are about 1/4 inch long with yellow and black stripes. They love to chew cucurbit leaves until they look like lace. They fly but tend to fall off the leaf when you disturb it, so put your hand underneath to catch them. Squish the beetles and look for their orange eggs laid in the soil around the plant. You can often catch them in pollinated squash flowers, then just squish or drop in a bucket of ammonia, kerosene, or other poison. For serious infestations, spray plants with pyrethrum (a botanical pesticide) every 3-4 days.
Squash Bugs
These large bugs are often found in pairs on squash family plants. They are brown or black, shield-shaped, and about 3/4 inch long. They lay very shiny reddish eggs on the undersides of leaves. They can be easily controlled by squishing or with applications of insecticidal soap. Making a small moat of wood ashes around the plants will control the bugs as well, since they hate walking over the ashes. Just make sure not to get any ash on the plants!
Aphids
Aphids are one of the most common garden pests. They can be difficult to see because they are very small and often green or tan in color. They suck the sap of the tender young foliage and undersides of leaves. If you see ants on your squash family plants, you probably have aphids, since ants are attracted to the honeydew produced by aphids. A variety of methods for managing aphids are available. The best remedy is to squish them when you find them. You can also make "bug juice" by mixing the squished bugs with water and spraying the plants. A spray made of ground garlic, onions, or hot pepper can also be used to repel aphids. Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil can be used as a last resort.
Flea Beetles
Flea beetles are not as common on cucurbits as they are on plants in the cabbage or mustard families, but they can do damage. They are very small, about the same size as an aphid, and shiny black. They jump like fleas when disturbed and make zillions of tiny holes in leaves. Flea beetles can be repelled using row covers, hot pepper, or garlic sprays, and as a last resort can be killed with pyrethrum.
It's getting to be that time in the season when there's more time for fun projects - the vegetable garden is in, and with the exception of weeding and succession planting, one can finally delve into the beauty and creative freedom of flower gardening. And just in time, as if by magic, the first rudbeckia unfurls its yellow petals, the astilbe raises its frothy plumes, and the daylilies unpack their sweet blossoms as if to say, "I'm out in the world now! Come play!" Our perennials look more dazzling than ever (and with our sale, they're also a steal)! If you'd like to learn about perennial selection and maintenance, our resident gardening expert, Hope Johnson, will be teaching a free workshop at our greenhouses on Saturday, July 16th from 9-11am. Come with your gardening questions, hopes, and dreams!
We still have lots of beautiful annuals for tumbling over window boxes, making bouquets, twisting into braids or brightening a veggie garden - whatever suits your fancy!
It is finally that time of year when everything is exploding into bloom. Nature is at it's peak in terms of beauty and productivity, and my it is glorious to behold! We hope you are enjoying it as much as we are.
The sights in our garden...
